Hey, my mole is black!

First, let me get the whining out of the way...

I hate my hotel. I mean, it is kind of charming, it's a big old colonial home, and when I say big, I mean BIG. But it is old. My room has no window. I read somewhere that the rooms had balconies. When I asked if there was another room with a window I was told none of the rooms have windows. It's kind of warm here and there is just a big ceiling fan that sounds like a jet engine. There are 5 settings, but only two work - high or off. So either I sleep with no fan or I try to sleep with a helicopter overhead. And then there is my complementary wifi. I tried connecting in my room and it doesn't work. When I told the guy at the front desk he suggested bringing my computer out to the dining area which is where I am. But that means I don't have wifi in my room. I WILL be writing a review on Trip Advisor.

And now for the good news. I love being back in Oaxaca as a seasoned traveler. I keep thinking back to my very first time here which was my very first time out of the US. I don't know how I did that, even though there were complications like getting lost and my bag not making it when I did, but what I realize is that I knew nothing about travel and I knew nothing about Mexico and I really couldn't appreciate all of the charms Oaxaca has to offer.

This is an especially festive time to be here. It reminds me of Puebla, where I was 3 years ago at this time, because a lot of the same Christmas/New Year/3 Kings stuff is going on. But it is also different. It's warmer. There aren't tiles everywhere like in Puebla, and then there is the black mole.

After arriving and checking in and being disappointed in my room, I headed down to the zocalo to get my bearings. The zocalo is always where it is happening, and this zocalo was happening on steroids. It was packed. There are actually two squares, one in front of the cathedral and another one that is surrounded by galleries with restaurants, bars, etc. I headed to the 2nd one to find some food.

I found a table outside by some minor miracle and after looking at the menu for awhile and being a bit puzzled about some of the choices (Oaxacan food is a mystery to me still), I settled on black mole with turkey. I know mole and I know turkey, but I don't know what black mole is - I thought I'd give it a try.

When it arrived it was quite shocking. It looked like my plate had been dipped in the oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico. There were pieces of turkey arranged on the plate covered with a gooey black sauce. But it was delicious! I'm not always a fan of mole. When it is good it is really good, but when it is not great, I don't really care for it. And I don't know what makes it good, but this was delicious. Apparently in Oaxaca they have 7 kinds of mole. I hope to try them all and also maybe learn how to make some and maybe even find some to take home.

As I was enjoying my food a bee decided to come bother me. They had been bothering the people at the next table but this one lone bee decided he wanted to harass me. I finished up and paid and headed back to my hotel to take a nap under the helicopter fan.

On the way back to my hotel I passed the hotel I stayed in the first time I was here. When I went out for a walk that first night, I didn't even know the name of the hotel because I just came here without any reservation and it took me a while to find a hotel. I went for a walk, thinking I had the mountain as my landmark and then realized I had no idea where I was and didn't know the name of the hotel and the next day I found out that the city is surrounded by mountains - so much for my landmark. By some miracle, I found it again. I could have been like that Swedish guy who left his apartment for a walk and wandered around for 17 years.

After passing the hotel I didn't know the name of (which by the way had windows), I passed a bank - Banco Azteca that was open. But it turned out it wasn't a bank. It was a variety store with furniture, toys, and a whole bunch of other stuff. I turned the corner to go to my hotel and passed another one, but this time I saw a sign on the door advertising their exchange rates. I needed to change money so I went in. I passed through the clutter of toys, motorcycles, furniture and mattresses and in the very back sat a lone teller behind a glass window. She changed my dollars, giving me the best rate I've seen around. I thought it was quite odd to have a bank teller in the back of a store selling all of this stuff, but it was very convenient. I could have changed money and bought a motorcycle if I wanted.

I got back to my hotel, turned on the helicopter fan and took a shower and then laid down to rest, but I couldn't sleep because I kept hearing people talking and doors slamming. I was getting really aggravated with the hotel, so I went out again.

At this point it was dark, though I didn't know that when I was in my room since there are no windows. I walked back towards the zocolo and as I got closer there was a major traffic jam. The zocolo was more crowded than it had been before and seemed more festive now that everything was lit up. The first thing I saw was a huge crowd in a big circle. When I peeked to see what was going on I saw a clown doing something goofy and making everyone laugh.

As I walked around I was amazed at the variety of things going on - there were clowns, people selling corn, music coming from all directions - some live, some recorded, families standing around talking and eating, lovers walking hand in hand, beggars, neon things flying up in the air, cotton candy, big bunches of helium balloons like in the movie "UP", people selling jewelry and other handicrafts and at the end of all of this was a huge display where people walked on a ramp to see a manger, some sheep, a waterfall and other symbols of the Christmas myth.

I bought an ear of grilled corn and the woman called me "abuelo" (grandfather) - hmph! Usually they put mayonnaise, chili, lime and cheese, but I got mine with just chili and lime. I thought it was good for me to watch my caloric intake and was glad I went for the corn instead of the ice cream I had first planned on.

After eating my corn, I walked around a bit, sat a bit, and walked some more. I walked the streets around the zocalo and found a collection of stalls selling all kinds of food I did not know. I will have to try it - one day. I walked back to the zocalo and then walked down another street finding more stalls selling more food I did not know. One stall was selling potatoes on a stick. The potato was cut in a spiral and put on a stick and then deep fried. It looked interesting, but not like something I have to have.

I ended up going into a taqueria, thinking I could have a light "dinner" before coming back to my hotel. I ordered two quesadillas and a lemonade (actually limeade). There was a young hippie-ish couple playing music. The guy was playing a plastic recorder and the girl, who had dreadlocks was accompanying him on hand cymbols. The other customers all looked kind of uncomfortable as the music was loud and not very good. When they finished their song a few people clapped, but most didn't. I was hoping they'd leave, but they played another song. Again a few people clapped and I hoped they would leave, but they began a third song. When they finished this one, no one clapped. I guess they took it as their cue to leave, but first they went around and asked people for money. I simply said "no", but most people gave them something - it looked like they only gave them a few pesos. I was so glad they left.

The quesadillas were okay - the mushrooms came out of a can. When I paid they gave me a little Christmas mug. That was nice of them (one more thing to pack, so it may get left behind).

I headed back through the zocalo and decided to take a different route home. I was glad I did. I found another street, blocked off to traffic which turned into a street fair as it got closer to another big church. There were all sorts of vendors selling handicrafts, music, jewelry and food. I stopped and looked at some rugs. If I had bought rugs the first time I was here when the peso was nothing, I would have probably paid $20 or less. These started at $80. They were quite beautiful, all handmade of wool, but I don't think I need a rug. I didn't really see anything that caught my eye, but I enjoyed walking through and looking.

And so that was my first day in Oaxaca. It seems like the festivities will continue on through January 6 and then I guess it will return to life as normal. I'm hoping to get out to see some indigenous villages, but am not sure yet how that will happen. I asked at a tour agency but they only have tours to Monte Alban.

I now hear music and talking coming from somewhere, I think it's the terrace upstairs. Great! This is something I'm going to have to listen to all night.